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Luxury brands, free-riding and the law


26th May 2009

A raft of cases, involving some of the world’s most renown luxury brands, have been decided in recent weeks (or have appeals due shortly), including “L’Oréal v Bellure”, “Google v LVMH”, “L’Oréal v eBay” and “Copad v Dior”.

As a group, these cases appear to be very significant. From a purely legal perspective, two fundamental issues appear intertwined in most, if not all, of them. First is the question of defining the scope of rights - if any - granted by a trade mark beyond its essential function of indicating trade origin. And, second, is the question of clarifying the circumstances in which a third party may (or may not) lawfully gain commercial advantage by using a renown brand in order to benefit from consumer interest in that brand (“free-riding”).

Commercially, of course, the outcome of these legal questions may well prove important in many sectors of the economy. However, they are of particular significance for the luxury brands industry, where maintaining the prestige and image of a brand, and keeping control of its presentation to consumers, are so fundamental to success.

Comparative advertising and “L’Oréal v Bellure”

On 10 February 2009, the Advocate General (“AG”) gave his opinion in “L’Oréal v Bellure”.

The case relates to the use by the defendants of comparison lists which identified certain of the defendants’ perfumes (typically sold at under £4 per bottle) by comparison with particular brands of renown luxury perfumes sold under trade marks owned by the claimants (typically sold at around £60 per bottle). Furthermore, several of the defendants’ perfumes had packaging which “winked an eye” at the packaging designs used by the claimants, although it was accepted on the facts that, despite these similarities in the packaging, few retailers or consumers would be confused as to the origin of the product.

Commercially, of course, luxury brand owners are likely to have serious concerns about comparative advertising, particularly if they suspect that a third party is simply using their renown mark in order to “free-ride” on consumer interest in it. Even aside from cases involving inaccurate, unfair or unfavourable comparisons, the fear is that such unauthorised use may give rise to significant “brand damage”, such as, for example, tarnishing the aura of the luxury brand by placing it in a “down-market” context.

From the perspective of EU law, the extent to which any advantage gained by a third party comparative advertiser may be regarded as lawful will depend, in large part, on the application of the Trade Marks Directive (89/104/EEC) (“Trade Marks Directive”) and the EU directive concerning misleading and comparative advertising (84/450/EEC, as subsequently amended and consolidated) (“MCA”). The interaction of these two directives is complex and a number of legal questions remain outstanding, five of which were referred to the ECJ in L’Oréal v Bellure. Although the ECJ’s ruling remains pending at the time of going to press, the AG’s opinion, if followed by the ECJ, could be highly significant. In addition to some useful, if uncontroversial, remarks clarifying interpretation of the two directives, the AG notably concluded that MCA Article 3a(1)(h):

  • “prohibits an advertisement which alludes, explicitly or by implication, bearing in mind its economic context, to the fact that the advertiser’s product has been manufactured in such a way as to imitate or reproduce a product protected by another person’s mark, even where only one or more of the essential characteristics of that product is alluded to; and,
  • consequently, it does not prohibit an advertisement solely on the ground that it states that the advertiser’s product has an essential characteristic that is identical with that of a product bearing a protected trade mark, including well known marks.”

The first point raises significant issues. For example, what does “imitate or reproduce” mean in this context? In paragraph 82 of his opinion, the AG offers some clarification, commenting that “the concepts of imitation and replica allude to the fact that, in conceiving his own product, the manufacturer did not rely on his own creative resources but attempted, only partly successfully, to endow it with the same characteristics as a product bearing another person’s trade mark or attempted, successfully, to endow it with very similar characteristics (both situations constituting imitations) or has actually succeeded in reproducing entirely the characteristics of the latter product (replicas)”.

Although the AG’s comments cast some light, they do not resolve in any detail what criteria are to be used to demonstrate “imitation”; and this, given commercial realities in the luxury brands industry, is often likely to be a central issue. Consequently, it may often be uncertain in practice whether comparative advertising can lawfully be used for a “look-at-me-too” product that is presented, for example, with a “look and feel” that is reminiscent of a renown brand.

Notwithstanding this and other points left open by the AG, the AG’s opinion may prove welcome for luxury brand owners because overall, his interpretation of the MCA seems likely, in relevant circumstances, to enhance the prospects of successfully challenging or deterring comparative advertising of copycat products.

The use of trade marks as adwords: Google v LVMH

The case of “Google v LVMH” also relates to the boundary between lawful and unlawful competitive advertising, but does so in the context of online advertising.

As many readers will be aware, this is perhaps the latest and most high profile case in a growing body of litigation relating to the sale by Google and other search engines of words (including trade marks) as search terms (“adwords”) to potential advertisers, irrespective of whether, in the case of a trade mark, such advertiser has any rights in the mark in question.

The “adword litigation” has led to a number of apparently conflicting decisions, across and within many jurisdictions, including the EU. Consequently, the extent to which trade mark rights can be used to prevent various forms of competitive online advertising practice remains unclear in key respects. As a result, a number of commentators are hoping that the AG (whose opinion is pending at the time of going to press) and ECJ will answer not only the questions referred, but also take the opportunity to address a number of related issues including:

  • defining the meaning of “use” of a trade mark in this context;
  • defining the extent to which such “use” may held liable to affect the essential and any other function(s) of a trade mark;
  • determining the application of the eCommerce directive and scope of responsibilities (if any) of search engines in respect of trade marks being used as search terms;
  • suggesting what account should be taken, in relevant cases, of circumstances where adwords which are identical to or similar to trade marks may have been used in connection with counterfeit or illegal goods.

Online Marketplaces and liability for illegal products: L’Oréal v eBay

One reason why achieving clarity in relation to “adwords” is pressing is because of the huge, and ever-growing, importance of online shopping. And online marketplaces, notably eBay, represent a central part of this phenomenon.

Like Google, eBay has been embroiled in litigation spanning many jurisdictions with leading luxury brands, notably over the sale via its platforms of counterfeit and illegal products. The decisions to date, as in the case of Adwords, have differed depending on both the particular facts in issue and on the application of local law.

Broadly, the decisions in favour of eBay - most notably in “Tiffany v eBay” in the USA - have typically held that, first, eBay acted as a mere conduit for postings on its site and, second, that, through its Verified Rights Owners programme (“VeRO”), it had responded appropriately by removing items notified to it by brand owners as counterfeit. Consequently, the burden of “policing” sales of counterfeit branded goods was treated as resting principally with the brand owner.

On the other hand, luxury brands have also had successes, most notably in “LVMH v eBay”, where the court awarded a significant sum in damages to LVMH (just under EUROS 40million) and did so on significant grounds. It held eBay had liability as a broker; that its role implied knowledge and control of the information transmitted on its sites; that eBay ought to check vendors who sell regularly; and, notably, that eBay was liable for damage to the integrity of selective distribution networks. This last point is particularly important. Luxury brands are increasingly concerned about the sale of grey market goods online (that is, genuine branded products being sold through unauthorised channels). Such sales pose a significant risk to the selective distribution networks that are fundamental to both the image and business models of luxury brands.

In this context, the most recent rulings in the L’Oréal v eBay litigation (during May 2009 in Paris and London) appear significant, if unofficial reports circulating in the media are correct.

Initial reports appear to suggest eBay won both cases. Reports of the Paris ruling, for example, suggested it was a victory for eBay on the basis it fulfilled the scope of any “obligation” on it to try to prevent the sale of fake goods. However, the outcome seems more subtle: the Court also invited the parties to a judicial mediation to seek to resolve the anti-counterfeiting measures that should be implemented and it stayed proceedings on the issue of eBay’s liability for illicit offers / listings and the question of damages. Similarly, although initial reports of the decision in London concentrated on the finding that eBay was not liable for the sale of counterfeit goods on its website, significant caveats again apply: reportedly the court accepted L’Oréal’s argument that eBay could do more to prevent counterfeiting and it gave guidance on appropriate anti-counterfeiting measures, including filtering auction lots and requiring sellers to disclose their name and address in listings.

The focus of the courts on bolstering anti-counterfeiting measures suggests that luxury brands may well be making significant progress in the overall war against counterfeit and illegal goods sold online. The reason is that, in reality, consumer demand means online marketplaces seem likely to remain highly significant for the foreseeable future. If that is the case, then strategically, the best approach to brand protection may not be to attempt to destroy the large, well-funded and technically sophisticated online marketplaces (such as eBay) but instead to seek incrementally ever higher standards. In this context, the recent decisions are very helpful in moving online marketplaces towards enhanced monitoring, transparency, and improved anti-counterfeit strategies and technologies (including smart processing of information, notably relating to vendor details).

Selective distribution - Copad SA v Dior

On 23 April 2009, the ECJ handed down its ruling in the case of “Copad v Dior”. It did so in terms which may represent a significant milestone for luxury brands seeking to protect their selective distribution networks.

The background to Copad v Dior is that Dior licensed SIL to manufacture and distribute luxury corsetry bearing Dior’s trade mark. The licence sought to protect Dior’s selective distribution channels by expressly prohibiting, among other things, sales by SIL to wholesalers, discount stores, and mail order companies (among others). In breach of its obligations, however, SIL sold products bearing the Dior mark to Copad, a discount store business.

The fundamental legal question raised by this case is whether, in this situation, a brand owner can only bring a claim against the manufacturer for breach of contract or may also be able to bring a trade mark infringement claim against the manufacturer and/or the manufacturer’s customer? The ECJ’s full ruling contains a number of implications that are significant for the drafting of licence agreements and for the interpretation of Trade Marks Directive articles 7 and 8. What is significant, from a wider luxury brand protection perspective, is the interpretation the ECJ gave to the wording of Trade Marks Directive art 8(2). The ECJ construed the provision as meaning that:

“the proprietor of a trade mark can invoke the rights conferred by that trade mark against a licensee who contravenes a provision in a licence agreement prohibiting, on grounds of the trade mark's prestige, sales to discount stores of goods such as the ones at issue in the main proceedings, provided it has been established that that contravention, by reason of the situation prevailing in the case in the main proceedings, damages the allure and prestigious image which bestows on those goods an aura of luxury”.

The emphasis placed here (and elsewhere in the ruling) on the protection of the aura of luxury, as being “essential” to such luxury brands, and on the role of context in helping consumers identify luxury brands in the marketplace, is potentially very important. The ECJ showed its willingness to recognise that maintenance of an aura of luxury may be a right that is protectable under trade mark law. If this approach is followed and developed in future cases, Copad v Dior may come to represent a notable milestone in increasing the scope of protection afforded to the proprietors of trade marks. As such, the decision will be warmly welcomed by proprietors of luxury brands seeking to protect and enhance selective distribution networks.

Conclusions

As noted, many of the cases discussed in this article are ultimately concerned with determining the scope of rights, if any, granted by a trade mark beyond its essential function of indicating trade origin. This issue was identified by the AG in L’Oréal v Bellure as a major area of uncertainty and as requiring urgent clarification by the ECJ. Although, disappointingly, the AG left the question unresolved, it is to be hoped the ECJ will take the opportunity shortly to address it in detail.

Of course, the ECJ’s recent decision in Copad v Dior may indicate a degree of judicial movement, at least within the EU, away from the idea of trade marks based exclusively on their original essential function towards recognition of wider proprietary rights that may be protectable. In this context, the pending “adwords” decision in LVMH v Google may prove particularly interesting.

A number of the decisions discussed above suggest brand owners are achieving, incrementally, a number of successes in asserting proprietary rights in relation to trade marks and in protecting their brands from being tarnished by association with inferior surroundings, and/or copycat, fake and illegal products. However, a significant degree of caution is needed. As noted, a number of key judgments and appeals are outstanding. Further, many of the cases discussed have a distinctively “European” (rather than American) bias in the balance struck between, on the one hand, the rights of a brand owner and on the other, the operation of the free market.

The importance of cases like Tiffany v eBay and the recent L’Oreal v eBay decisions should not be underestimated, especially in an industry where the brands and business models involved are global in nature. And in this context, what luxury brands need more than anything is a greater degree of certainty, consistency, and collaboration, across global jurisdictions concerning the scope of available brand protection.

This article reflects the position as at 26 May 2009. Further developments on a number of the cases highlighted in this article are expected imminently.

This article was first published in Trademark World

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